Amsterdam - A four day travel guide

Whats worse? The sound of your alarm going off at 3.30am or it actually being KLM casually ringing to tell you your flight is delayed indefinitely, but still to go to the airport, knowing full well its going to be at least a few hours. We packed up and took a meander to the airport to sit and wait (4 hours late by the way) for our flight to eventually take off and land in lovely Amsterdam. 

Now one thing to note is that we headed to Amsterdam in February on one of the coldest weekends of the winter (frozen canals anyone) which means we naturally stopped to eat and drink every 15 minutes because we would have otherwise died of frostbite, of this I am positive. After the initial shock of cold air that greeted us from the metro, the delayed flight meant we could actually check in to our ace room at The Zoku Hotel and add some layers before hitting the streets. The glass atrium/jungle that greets you from the lift gives you a good insight as to what you are in for at the Zoku, attention to detail being the number one. We opted for a loft room and what that room can’t teach you about small living is unknown to me, incredibly cleverly designed with every mod con you could ever need the only thing it was lacking is a balcony but considering the weather sitch I can’t imagine we would have used it much, and in summer the roof terrace would happily tick this box.

Wrapped up like a sausage in a blanket we braved the wind (this is hands down the windiest city I have ever visited but yeah, windmills) we headed in search of food and some shopping. Hitting up the Foodhallen where i would guess 80% of Amsterdam also was, we found some sustenance in the shape of Ramen, my favourite food, (Must.Visit.Japan) and tucked ourselves into the corner to people watch. The throng of people and i mean a LOT of people were filling the space and basically having the best Saturday away from the cold, including us now. A few beers later and suitably beer jacketed up we pottered around the shops in the market including the ace Levi space and wandered the streets flitting in and out of shops, Wildernis being our favourite, a plant and colour filled haven selling plants and all other educational items, I had already re-designed our spare bedroom before we had stepped out of the store.

Next stop was Time and Style, we stumbled upon this place but are so glad we did, a concept store spanning 3 floors filled with incredible pieces of furniture set up in a liveable space, we felt like we had snuck into somebodies house by accident. Back on the street and with the light starting to drop we went in search of food and drinks via the shop for more wool accessories and arrived at Bier temple. Nestling ourselves in the corner we watched the trams passing outside and the ever strange growing crowd in the bar, including a dog that barked the bar down everytime Mark moved near it. A few hours later and a strange turn in music we moved on strategically in the direction of Zoku making a quick pitstop at Cafe Gollum Amstelstraat to warm up. We realise pretty late on we haven’t eaten and google the nearest FEBO. Eagerly walking in the direction of Febo I sobbed a little when I saw the under construction sign and had to settle for a box of chocolate doughnuts, the woman behind the counter definitely thought she had me sussed, munchies anyone?

We woke up with a hazy beer hangover and the vertiginous climb down from our mezzanine bed felt like descending Snowdon, a quick shower and approximately 1 hour later we managed to go in search of food, after last nights supper consisting of chocolate topped sugar doughnuts it was much needed. We actually stumbled upon this place but it looked an intriguing space and I was ravenous. Coffee and coconuts, not sure where the coconuts came from but we both opted for coffee, avo and eggs, and a smoothie to hopefully re-fuel my shot immune system.

Feeling much more human we wandered towards Hutspot, a great store filled with select homewares and clothing, also containing photobooths and all the dogs, Amsterdam appears to be pretty dog friendly which makes me want to come back in Summer with Minnie in tow. Leaving the store with a pocket of photo strips and a few bits for the house we make our first beer stop at Browerij Troost, we settle in the corner and grab a beer flight enjoying the space and the warm sun thats flooding the garden room at the back, we stay for a few because its warm and the music is good before wrapping back up and making our way over the river to Oedipus.

The plan was always to cycle everywhere in Amsterdam but the wind is brutal and it still hadn’t peaked above zero degrees so we decided to walk with regular stops, this time at Peejays for a coffee and a doughnut, this one though was a pretty special Boston Creme and comes highly recommended. We arrive quickly at the port (the walk turned into more of a jog) and we try to wait patiently to get the boat over the River, bracing ourselves when the speedometer kicked in an we nearly froze right there and then.

Another swift walk towards Oedipus and a bit of house perving later we were settled with a beer in the warehouse space and grabbed a burger from the Beer Chief. The beer jacket seems to have worn off and as great as the space is its bloody freezing, we have 4 miles to schlep in -4 degrees and last nights hangover appears to be back so we leg it to the ferry and back to Zoku to our very warm bed.

The morning starts much more productive than yesterdays mainly due to the lack of hangover. Over breakfast and coffee we check the weather and its still -2 so try find more unused layers to pack myself into for the day. Today seems as good as any to do some culture so we head in the direction of Moco Museum, en route we stumble across Waterlooplein flea market and grab a few bits for home, for some reason I just can’t seem to help myself when we are away and its always much better stuff? Obviously we stop for food on the way in the shape of a FEBO, i am so excited after day ones disaster but realise it really is terrible and I will never be eating from a food vending machine again. 

We arrive at Moco where theres a Banksy exhibition on (meh) and more importantly some Roy Lichtenstein that was actually in the cellar, but my favourite part was the arts and crafts building it was housed in, I mean seriously pretty stuff. The sun seemed to stick around for about 4 hours a day and as it starts to drop we go in search of, you guessed it, a bar to heat up. We pass the best magazine shop (Athenaeum) and leave with a few in tow. Even spotting a copy of Hop & Barley featuring Mark’s cover image. By chance I spot a doorway with a subtle script called Lebanese Sajeria. I dive in before Mark even spotted where I was and ordered the BEST Manouse and sweetened fresh mint tea and die right there and then of happiness. 

Now ridiculously replete we pop around the corner to Arendnest but not before picking a few dream homes. 3 or 4 drinks later and we reckon we should probably get a proper dinner is as we haven’t quite made it yet and head over to La Perla on a friends recommendation and did not regret that. Worth noting that they have takeaway one side of the road and a restaurant the other. The pizza was so good and washed down with some red wine amongst couples and friends having a good time I really appreciated what a lovely place Amsterdam is, and not a stag in sight. Realising I may have eaten too much I basically roll back to the hotel but not before a last nightcap at Gollum Raamstreeg where I made the mistake of ordering a Gin and Tonic.

Reluctantly packing and checking out of the Zoku, dropping the bags in the locker room to make the most of the day and grabbing a coffee and croissant for the walk. We reach our destination, Huis Marseille Musuem, and navigate our way around the townhouse gallery space. The most amazing Eddo Hartmann North Korean Exhibition is on including a VR headset that places you in 5 of the busiest areas in North Korea and I am thoroughly freaked out by the time its over and head into the quiet library at the back, the kind you wished existed when you were at university. The weather is spoiling us and has peaked at 2 degrees so we brave Horticus Botanicus and enjoy wandering the complex maze of incredibly old plants and basking in the greenhouse warmth and sun rays before walking a few miles north in the sun to Brouwerij’t IJ, a brewery set in a windmill, looking a little like a Working Mens Club from the outside but pleasantly surprised on the inside with just the right amount of people filling the space a good selection of their beers. The charcuterie looked delicious but we knew we this would be our only meal for the day so something more substantial was needed. 

We spotted Bar Botanique when searching initially for the trip and discounted it due to its location but realised we were only 20 minutes away so headed in the direction and were super happy when we arrived in time for the dinner service. The space, food and service were spot and and it was reasonably priced and beautifully decorated. We whiled away a few hours before we made the dreaded schlep to the airport for the evening flight home. We had no idea the carnage that was unfolding at home with the impending snow storm and by some miracle our plane landed safely and on time in a VERY snowy Leeds Bradford airport. 

After battling our way home in the snow it wasn’t until the next day I had time to reflect on our trip. I went with no pre conceived ideas about Amsterdam, some people told me it was seedy, some said expensive but I genuinely found it to be neither of those. It was a beautiful city with so much to offer, kind people, beautiful architecture, a thriving beer and food scene, independent shops and galleries and small pocket communities. There are very few cities I could see myself living in but Amsterdam would definitely feature and I am itching to get back when its warmer.